Nothing in cart
Great service Quick refund on the wrong part ordered. Correct part reordered and received 2 days latter. Great company to deal with.
1st order by Jan from QLD
This guide is an overview of the parts used in a traditional 230-240V caravan or RV installation. It is intended to help you understand the layout and source the right components.
Important: fixed 230-240V wiring in a caravan, motorhome or camper must be installed, tested and certified by a licensed electrician. Current installations are expected to comply with the relevant Australian Standards, including AS/NZS 3000 and AS/NZS 3001. Use this guide for planning and parts identification, not as a DIY wiring instruction.
You will need a 15A extension lead to supply mains power to your RV. These are identified by the wider earth pin, which prevents substitution with a standard 10A extension lead.
The cable in a 15A lead is rated for a higher current than a 10A lead. Do not modify a 10A lead with a 15A plug, and do not use a heavy-duty 10A lead as a substitute.
Power inlets come in different styles and colours. Use an inlet with a cover for external use, rated at 15A. If your RV has more than one circuit, your electrician may specify additional power inlets or circuit separation.
The rear connections must be protected. The active/live conductor and neutral conductor then go to a suitable double pole circuit breaker or RCD arrangement as specified by the electrician.
The protective earth connection is a critical safety item. In a typical installation, one earth conductor from the power inlet is connected to the chassis with a secure mechanical connection such as a bolt, nut and spring washer.
A second earth conductor then continues to power points, hard-wired appliances and any lights with an earth connection. The earth conductor must remain continuous and must not be interrupted by switches or circuit breakers.
A caravan or RV mains installation requires suitable protection for each circuit. Traditional installations commonly use double pole protection so both active and neutral are disconnected when the circuit is switched off or tripped.
An RCD, or residual current device, adds protection by disconnecting the supply when leakage to earth is detected. Your electrician will specify the correct circuit breaker, RCD, enclosure and wiring method for the installation.
A circuit breaker cover or enclosure is used to mount the breaker. It usually contains a rear mounting rack and a front cover. The enclosure is fixed inside the RV, often inside a cupboard or service area.
Hard-wired appliances and 230-240V light fittings require suitable switching. Where a light or appliance has its own switch, it still needs to meet the requirements for the installation.
Range hoods and other appliances near cooking areas may need an additional isolating switch away from the stove top. This is another item to confirm with the electrician before final wall linings are fitted.
The power points we sell have double pole switches. They may be installed with the wiring continuing from one point to the next, with the final termination at the last power point. This is often described casually as "one after the other", but the outlets are not wired in series in the electrical sense.
Where the wall has a cavity, low-profile power points may suit. Mounting plates and deeper power points are also available where wall thickness or backing space is a problem. External outlets can be added when specified correctly for the location.
The total load used at one time on a circuit must remain within the circuit rating. High-load appliances such as heaters, kettles, microwaves and air conditioners need particular attention.
230-240V sheathed cable can run through walls when installed correctly. Where timber wall studs are small, the cable path should avoid weakening the wall with a straight line of holes.
Where aluminium or steel frames are used, grommets or other approved protection must be used to prevent vibration wearing through the insulation. If cable is not housed in a wall, it normally needs to be run in suitable conduit. Do not run mains wiring under the floor unless your electrician has specified an approved method.
Backing blocks should be installed in wall cavities before cladding goes on. It is also sensible to photograph the wiring positions before linings are fitted, so later screws or drill holes do not damage hidden wiring.
A licensed electrician must test and certify the completed 230-240V installation. Rules and standards can change, and requirements can vary by state, use and registration path, so treat this page as a parts and planning overview only.
Can I use a 10A inlet instead of a 15A inlet?
No. Caravans and RVs normally use a 15A inlet and 15A supply lead. A 10A inlet or altered lead can create compliance and safety problems, especially where higher-load appliances such as air conditioners, kettles, toasters or heaters may be used.
Where can the power inlet or power points be located?
They can only go where the fitting is suitable for the location and the installation remains compliant. Inlets, outlets and switches must be accessible for use and service, protected from weather and damage, and kept clear of heat and wet-area restrictions. Ask the electrician to confirm the position before cutting panels or cladding walls.
Can an inverter or generator feed the caravan's 230-240V wiring?
No, not as a simple plug-in or DIY connection. An inverter or generator should only feed caravan 230-240V wiring when the whole system has been designed and installed for that purpose. Changeover switching, earthing, RCD/RVD protection and isolation all need to be specified by a licensed electrician. Plugging an inverter into the caravan inlet or mixing inverter supply with mains supply can be dangerous.
Why does the RCD trip when I plug the van in?
An RCD trip can be caused by a faulty appliance, water ingress, damaged wiring, an earth fault or another installation problem. Unplug appliances if it is safe to do so, but do not keep resetting the RCD and towing or living with the fault. Have the van checked by a licensed electrician.
Is 12V wiring treated the same as 230-240V wiring?
No. The 12V system and mains system are separate and have different rules, risks and protection requirements. Do not convert 12V lights or appliances to run from mains power just because the battery system has a fault. Fix the battery/charger/12V issue separately.
Can mains wiring be soldered or joined behind a wall?
No, not as a hidden DIY soldered join behind a wall. Mains wiring connections must be made using approved methods and remain accessible where required. Vibration, heat, wall cavities and hidden joints all matter in a caravan. Leave conductor type, joins, terminals and junction boxes to the electrician who is certifying the work.
Great service Quick refund on the wrong part ordered. Correct part reordered and received 2 days latter. Great company to deal with.
Very good service and delivery time.
Great service from the staff