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If your caravan has hot water, chances are it's thanks to a Suburban. These hardy gas-electric water heaters have become a staple in Aussie RVs for good reason - They're reliable, effective, and with a bit of upkeep, they'll keep delivering long, steamy showers year after year.
But like any hard-working bit of gear, they need a little TLC. In this guide, we'll walk you through the essentials of Suburban hot water system maintenance; what to check, when to do it, and how to keep things running smoothly. Whether you're heading off on a long-haul trip or just giving your van a seasonal check-up, here's what you need to know.
Turn off gas, 240V power, 12V control power and the water pump before working on a Suburban hot water system. Let the tank cool, disconnect mains water, open a hot tap to relieve pressure, and expect the tank to drain when the anode is removed.
After any maintenance, refill the tank before turning gas or 240V power back on. Running the element dry can damage it quickly. If you are not confident with 240V wiring or gas diagnosis, use a licensed repairer.
The inside of your hot water tank isn't the most glamorous place - it's full of heat, water, and minerals that can cause corrosion over time. Fortunately, Suburban units are designed with a sacrificial anode rod that takes the brunt of this damage. But that rod doesn't last forever. Neglecting basic maintenance like anode replacement or tank flushing can shorten the life of your heater or lead to frustrating failures on the road. A bit of regular upkeep now can save you hundreds in repairs later - not to mention some very cold showers.
Inside every Suburban HWS is an anode rod made of magnesium or aluminium, designed to corrode in place of the steel tank. This "sacrificial" part draws in the minerals and sediment that would otherwise attack the tank lining.
When to replace it? If the anode has lost more than half its original diameter, it's time for a new one. For most users, that's about every 6-12 months, depending on water quality and frequency of use.
Before trying to inspect the anode make sure your Hot Water System has been turned off long enough to cool down. The water will drain out when you remove the anode.
1. Turn off gas, 240V power, and the 12V pump.
2. Disconnect mains water and relieve system pressure by opening taps.
3. Open the pressure relief valve.
4. Use a 27mm socket or a 1-1/16" tube spanner to unscrew the anode at the bottom of the tank.
5. Drain the tank (yep, it will gush).
6. Flush out sediment with a hose or tank rinser.
7. Wrap thread tape on the new anode and reinstall.
8. Refill the tank before turning anything back on.
Tip: A multi-fit tube spanner makes the job a breeze and fits both the anode and the 240V element.
If you've never flushed your tank, prepare to be amazed - and maybe a little grossed out. Calcium, rust flakes, and general sediment can build up fast inside the tank, especially if you're using bore or hard water.
While removing the anode, use the opportunity to give your tank a clean-out. A hose will do, but we recommend using a purpose-built tank rinser. It attaches to a standard hose and provides enough pressure and direction to properly blast out the gunk.
If your hot water is taking longer to heat, or you're hearing strange noises, your 240V element could be the culprit. Suburban's newer-style elements are quieter and more efficient, but all of them can build up calcium over time.
Before starting any maintenance work on Suburban water heaters ensure you have disconnected all forms of electricity and gas. You will find the element under a protective cover. For combined gas/electric units this is located behind the main burner tube.
1. Drain the tank (as above).
2. Remove the burner tube to access the element compartment.
3. Unscrew the protective cover.
4. Disconnect the two 240V wires (polarity doesn't matter).
5. Use a 1 1/2 inch tube spanner to remove the element.
6. Inspect for build-up or damage and replace if needed.
7. Fit the new element, ensuring terminals are horizontal.
8. Reconnect wires, replace the cover and burner tube.
9. Refill before powering on.
Gas models include a burner tube that should be cleaned at least once a year. Spiders, dust, rust - there's a lot that can creep into this narrow chamber and disrupt the flame pattern.
Signs it needs cleaning: A yellow or flickering flame, or a heater that won't stay lit.
Use a toothbrush and compressed air to clear out any obstructions. Avoid poking around with metal tools, and only replace the tube if it's clearly damaged.
If the pressure relief valve drips while the heater is heating, that can be normal expansion. If it leaks constantly, first relieve pressure and check for debris or scale at the valve. Replace the valve if it will not seal reliably.
If hot water flow is only a dribble but cold water is fine, check for scale, anode debris, blocked tap cartridges, a blocked non-return valve, or a blocked hot outlet before blaming the whole heater.
If the gas lights but will not stay alight, clean the burner tube and check for spider webs, rust flakes, flame sense alignment and door/airflow problems. A flame that only stays alight with the door open needs proper diagnosis, not repeated relighting.
For storage, many owners drain and flush the heater after a trip, especially after hard or bore water. If the van will sit for months, leaving old sediment soup in the tank is harder on the system than draining and flushing it properly.
Whether you're after an anode, element, burner tube, or a full rebuild, CaravansPlus stocks the complete range of Suburban spare parts, plus handy diagrams and videos to guide you through every step. And yes, we keep the good stuff in stock - no long waits or dodgy off-brand substitutes.



A little maintenance goes a long way. By taking 30 minutes to inspect your Suburban system, you can extend its life, improve efficiency, and save yourself a costly breakdown down the line. If you're gearing up for the big lap or just squeezing in a weekend trip, don't forget to check your HWS - it works hard so you can relax.





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