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Excellent service, correct item, delivered fine, easy fit… no complaints👍
1st order by Ian from QLD
SHURflo 4009 Automatic Water Pump - 12V / 11.3L/min / 45psi
$177.60
$115
At CaravansPlus we sell a range of 12V and 24V pumps for recreational vehicles. They range from small inline or submersible pumps through to automatic pumps that can operate a shower. The best choice depends on voltage, flow rate, pressure, pump location and the fittings in your water system.
Most of our pumps are 12V, with a small number of 24V pumps for buses or trucks. This is always shown in the product specifications.
It is recommended to have a fuse in the wiring before any electrical device. The current draw on these pumps is usually quite low, and 2.5mm to 4mm wire is adequate in most cases. We recommend running twin wire all the way to the pump rather than using the chassis as the earth, because chassis earths often cause problems.
A pump's flow rate is shown as litres per minute or gallons per minute. A 10 litres per minute pump can theoretically fill a 10 litre bucket in one minute.
A flow rate of around 4 litres per minute can be enough for a basic shower. It is rare to use 10 litres per minute from an RV water tank, so a pump that can achieve around 10 litres per minute will suit most standard RVs and can usually let a sink run while someone is in the shower.
Some basic pumps just pump, and must be switched on and off separately. Whale inline and submersible pumps fit into this category. These usually go directly to a straight-through spout or shower rose without a tap.
The majority of pumps we sell are automatic. They start pumping as soon as a tap is turned on. They have a pressure sensor built in and start when the pressure inside the outlet pipes drops below the cut-in pressure.
Pressure is expressed as PSI or bar. As a guide, 14.5psi = 1 bar. When the pressure reaches the cut-off pressure, the pump stops. This helps prevent excess pressure on plumbing components and appliances.
Flow rate and pressure are different things. Flow rate is how much water the pump can move. Pressure is how hard the pump can push against the closed or partly closed plumbing system. Higher pressure is not automatically better if your fittings, taps or appliances do not need it.
Pump cycling is when the pump switches off and on repeatedly while you are using water, often during a shower. It can happen when the pump can produce more flow than the tap or shower is using.
Common ways to reduce cycling are:
An accumulator can be thought of as a balloon.
Any excess flow produced by the pump that cannot exit the tap can go into the accumulator. When the accumulator is full, the pump stops and water can still flow from the tap until the accumulator empties. Then the pump starts again.
Depending on the size of the accumulator, this can dramatically reduce how often the pump stops and starts.
Accumulator pre-charge pressure should be set according to the pump and accumulator instructions. If you are matching it to a pressure-switch pump, the setting is usually related to the pump's cut-in pressure, not simply the maximum PSI printed on the pump.
Variable speed pumps are more expensive and speed up or slow down to give a similar pressure at the required flow rate. In small RV pump sizes, they can be less attractive once purchase price and reliability are considered.
Bypass pumps have a bypass built into the pump. When pressure increases, some water returns to the inlet side and is pumped again, so the pump can keep running more smoothly. They can still cycle at very low flow rates, but this style is popular for new RV installations and replacement pumps.
Filters are recommended to prevent dirt and debris entering your pump and damaging the diaphragm. Damage from dirt is not usually covered by warranty. Filters should be on the inlet side of the pump and placed where they are easy to access for cleaning.
Non-return valves, also known as check valves, ensure water can only flow one way. They are useful when keeping a line constantly primed, or when water could otherwise drain back towards the tank. They can also restrict flow, so use them where they solve a real problem.
Most pumps will suck water up from the tank to the pump height. This is shown in the specifications as dry prime height.
Pumps are generally better at pushing water than pulling it, so keep the pump reasonably close to the tank where practical. For most pumps, a pull height around 1 metre is fine when the inlet pipe is suitable and airtight.
Some inexpensive pumps need to be at or below water level because they cannot pump air to get water flowing. If a worn pump no longer holds water in the inlet pipe when it stops, it may need to pump air each time until it primes. A non-return valve may help, but for a permanent fix the diaphragm may need renewing or the pump may need replacing.
Mount the pump correctly to reduce fatigue on fittings and annoying vibration. Use a solid mounting point, not a loose sheet of ply that can act like a drum skin. Install the pump somewhere accessible for servicing.
Flexible connecting pipework is important. A common approach is to use about 300mm of flexible hose with a bend before connecting to straight or rigid pipework, so vibration is not transferred through the plumbing.
Some pumps can run dry without damage, and this is a feature to look for in the specifications. Any pump without this feature can be quickly damaged if it runs without water to keep it cool.
Each pump product page shows the water connections on the pump body and whether additional adaptors are included. Our product pages also show compatible fittings under Product Connections below the product description.
Noise is usually vibration transferring through the mounting surface or rigid pipework. Check the pump is mounted on a solid surface, the flexible hose has room to move, and the pump is not touching a cabinet wall or floor panel that amplifies vibration.
This usually means pressure is slowly dropping. Check for leaks, a dripping tap, a leaking non-return valve, air in the line, or a pump pressure switch that is not holding correctly.
Check the fuse, wiring, switch, battery voltage, blocked filter and whether thermal protection has tripped. If the pump has leaked into the motor or seized, stop using it and replace or service it.
Some installations benefit from an accumulator, especially where the hot water unit or plumbing is restrictive and the pump cycles. This depends on the pump, hot water system and plumbing layout.
When deciding which pump is best for your application, consider:
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