How To Level Your Caravan Or Trailer

1. Why level matters

Apart from the feeling that your RV is unlevel, there are practical reasons to set up level each night.

• Your sink and shower may not drain correctly.
• 3-way fridges need the van to be reasonably level to operate correctly.
• Items can roll off surfaces.
• Your bed, table and cooking area will be more comfortable to use.

2. Before your first trip

You will need a 2-way level, bulls-eye level, or a smartphone with a level app. We do not recommend a builder's level, because they are too accurate for this job, can cause frustration, and are harder to store.

One inexpensive idea is to level your caravan at home, then place a blob of silicone on your A-frame and set a 2-way level exactly level while it dries. One level must line up with your axle.

Above: Glue a 2-way level onto your A-frame when the caravan floor is level both ways.

We have a number of spirit levels and electronic levels in different configurations.

3. Set the van level at the campsite

The level between your wheels is the first thing to get correct.

If you have the option to park on ground that is level between the wheels, this is the easy option. On slopes this will usually mean pointing the RV directly up or directly down the hill.

Many camping sites do not allow you to change the direction you park, or you may want to point your awning towards the best view. In this case, drive onto pieces of timber or use commercially available levelling ramps.

If you have the option, it is better to pull onto the levelling ramp rather than reverse up it. After pulling up the ramp the handbrake will usually operate better. Reversing can leave the brake shoes less engaged, and a coupling that contains a spring can be under pressure when you uncouple.

Before you unhook from the car, check the level across the caravan. Your helper can inspect the cross bubble before you switch off the car. If you are working alone, stop, apply the brake, and check the level before uncoupling. If the caravan rolls when uncoupling, it is best for it to roll away from your car to prevent damage. Leave the safety chain on while uncoupling to reduce the risk of a roll-away.

After you have fully unhooked, move the car if necessary, then set the correct height with the jockey wheel. The second bubble on the A-frame is your guide here. I usually go an extra turn on the jockey wheel, because my next job is to lower the rear corner steadies and that tends to lift the rear a small amount.

For a single axle caravan or trailer that parks on reasonably level sites, the following single ramp with chock is great value.

For normal campsite levelling, drive onto ramps or timber rather than jacking the side of the caravan up. Use a jack only on the correct jacking points and for the purpose recommended by the caravan or chassis manufacturer, such as a wheel change or maintenance. Do not rely on corner steadies to lift the van or take wheel weight.

4. Tandem wheels

Tandem wheels will need two levelling ramps on the same side. Depending on the distance between the wheels, it can be impossible to get some ramps in between the wheels.

The clever Haigh ramp splits and can be put between the wheels in 2 stages. If you have a helper, you need to stop on the red section while the black section slides in. It takes good communication with the driver to not move during this bit.

After stopping at any point on the ramp, before unhooking it is essential to use a chock.

Above: It is best to get a matching brand chock and ramp as they interlock at various positions.

5. Ramps on both sides

You may need ramps on both sides if you are pointing uphill and the slope would otherwise prevent you fitting a jockey wheel, or if you want to leave the caravan attached for an overnight stop.

In this case, the general rule of pulling onto a ramp has been disregarded because of the direction of the slope. It would make it a really steep climb if the ramp pointed the other way. This is the safer option.

6. If the jockey wheel is too short or too long

There will be times when the slope prevents the jockey wheel being clamped at the best height. In this case you will need a portable stand to transfer the caravan's weight while you reposition the jockey wheel in the clamp.

This is a three stage operation:

• Use the jockey wheel as normal to uncouple.
• Rest the A-frame securely on a portable stand.
• Re-clamp the jockey wheel at a higher position. After removing the stand, the A-frame can be lowered much further.

You do need to be careful doing this, because if the caravan moves while the jockey wheel is not attached, the A-frame can drop and cause injury. Chock the wheels first, keep clear of the A-frame drop zone, and use a rated stand on firm ground. A safer way is to have an additional clamp and adjustable stand.

If the jockey wheel needs to be fully extended to get the caravan level, it is better to use the above method to lower the jockey wheel in the A-frame clamp for a safer setup.

Above: Stakka Jack can be used, or a steel car stand if you have one.

The Trail-A-Mate with a flat base gives more adjustment than a standard jockey wheel and can be used as your caravan jack. These are a very popular replacement to the standard wheel because of ease of use, longer lift and use as a hydraulic jack.

7. Quick answers from common questions

Can I level a small motorhome on my own?

Yes. A fixed electronic level, a phone app, or a small bubble level visible from the driver's seat can help when you do not have a helper. Drive onto the ramps slowly, stop, apply the brake, then recheck before you get out. Do not try to adjust ramps while the vehicle is moving.

Does a 12V compressor fridge need the van level?

A 12V compressor fridge is usually less fussy about level than a 3-way absorption fridge. You still want the van reasonably level for sleeping, drainage, cooking and comfort. Some older or tired 3-way fridges are particularly prone to poor operation when the van is not close to level.

Should I use levelling ramps for long-term storage?

Levelling ramps are mainly for short-term campsite levelling. For storage over several months, focus on firm dry ground, wheel chocks, tyre pressure, and safe support points recommended by the van or chassis manufacturer. Do not use corner steadies as jacks or leave the van supported in a way that lifts wheels without proper rated support.

8. Summary

• Level across the caravan first by pulling onto a ramp where possible.
• Apply the handbrake and chock the wheels.
• Disconnect wiring, then uncouple the towball.
• Remove the safety chain last.
• Move the vehicle if necessary before adjusting front-to-rear level with the jockey wheel.
• Wind down the rear legs after the caravan is level. Corner steadies are for steadying, not lifting.